American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Palcaraju Oeste

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Palcaraju Oeste. Our expedition was composed of Josep Piera, leader, Albert Altet, Lluís Ambròs, Eduard Ballbè, Esteva Cardellach and me. With the veteran porter Eustaquio Henostroza, we set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Ishinca at 14,400 feet on July 29, Camp I at 16,250 feet and Camp III on the Palcaraju Glacier at 17,400 feet. The first summit attempt failed at a great crevasse at 19,500 feet, but on August 12 Piera and I reached the top of Palcaraju Oeste (20,046 feet) via the southwest ridge and west face. We two had climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) the day before. Urus Este (17,782 feet) was climbed on August 4 by Cardellach and Piera and on August 6 by Altet and Ballbè.

Joaquim PrunÉs, Grup d’Iniciatives de Muntanya, Terrassa, Spain

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