South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Group

Publication Year: 1976.

Huandoy Group. On July 14 an Italian expedition led by Carlo Zonta with Francesco Santon as deputy set up Base Camp at the Llanganuco Lakes at 12,300 feet. The next day they placed Camp I at 15,750 feet at the foot of the south face of Huandoy Sur. By July 24 they had a camp on the top of a buttress at 18,150 feet but realized the dangers were too great. They divided, some attempting the southeast spur of Chacraraju and others on the eastern side of the Huandoy group. Those who went to Chacraraju gave up that attempt after a couple of days because of falling ice. All turned to the Huandoy climbs. On August 3 Pisco was climbed by Franco Piana, Sergio Martini, Renato Casarotto and Eugenio Battaglia, on August 4 by Lorenzo Pomodoro and Alviano Baldan, and on August 8 by Toni Gnoato and Pierino Radin. From the Pisco-Huandoy Este col on August 4 Piana, Casarotto and Martini climbed the northeast ridge of Huandoy Este (19,898 feet) and returned to the col. On August 6 the same trio started up the east ridge of the same peak, a new route, and bivouacked 650 feet from the top. On the 7th they climbed over the summit and bivouacked in the col between the east and north peaks, before descending to Parón Lake. On August 5 Gnoato and Radin climbed towards Huandoy Norte (20,980 feet; the highest summit) through the Garganta; Gnoato had to quit some 650 feet from the top but Radin went on alone. The climb was repeated on August 6 by Franco Gessi, Renato Tessarolo, Dr. Walter De Stavola and Francesco Santon. On August 15 Gnoato and Radin made the first ascent of P 5455 (17,897 feet) by its south spur. It lies some two miles south of the main peak.