American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo, Southwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Alpamayo, Southwest Face. A very strong team of Italians, led by Casimiro Ferrari and composed of Angelo Zoia, Danilo Borgonovo, Pino Negri, Pinuccio Castelnovo and Dr. Sandro Liati supported by the industrialist Franco Busnelli, made the first ascent of the southwest face of Alpamayo. They placed Base Camp at 12,625 feet in the Quebrada Santa Cruz. Camp I was at 15,700 feet at the foot of the glacier on the southeast slope of the Quebrada. They fixed some 650 feet of rope to reach the pass (17,400 feet) at the south end of the south ridge of Alpamayo. Camp II was some 150 feet lower in full view of the southwest face. On June 16, 17 and 18 they fixed ropes to within 650 feet of the top of the 3000-foot-high, ice-fluted face, climbing almost always in the shade. On June 20 all six climbers reached the summit.

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