South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

Publication Year: 1976.

Huascarán. Generally this was a disappointing year for climbers in the Cordillera Blanca. The weather never completely stabilized, a condition which has grown progressively worse in the last four years. Twenty-four groups composed of 134 climbers attempted the Garganta route to Huascarán south and north peaks in 1975, 58 reaching one or the other summit; three lost their lives. On June 11 German Peter Götz died at 18,000 feet, six hours after manifesting symptoms of pulmonary and cerebral edema. His companions were not familiar with the illness. On July 24 Reinhard Siegl and Heinrich Gentner departed from their Garganta camp towards the north summit in forceful winds; they did not return. Ascents follow: South Peak: Vincent Duben, Ivan Gálfy, Ivan Fiala, Taras Pacák, Czechs, May 20; Georg Brosig, Heinrich Schön, Germans, June 12; Wayne Cates, Dave Hansen, Peter Herwick, USA, June 13; Robert Broughton, Kenneth Groff, USA, June 24; Dan Langmade, David Ciochetti, USA, June 30; Walter and Barbara Pschorr, Germans, July 18; Tomás Gross, Czech, Felipe Mautino, Peruvian, July 23; Jon Jones, Canadian, John Leader, English, July 24; Tim Schuld, Mark Fried, Dennie Black, Joseph A. Vance, George Stransky, R.H. Seaper, Stephen Yeagle, Bruce Schneider, Rick Droker, USA, July 26; Pat Weidman and an Argentine companion, July 27; Adam Lewandowski, Kasimier Rosiak, Jan Wozniak, Polish, August 30. North Peak: Arthur Mudge, Sheldon Moomaw, Kesler Teter, Fred Lang, USA, July 25; María Elena Flores, Sofía Medina, Dolores Novia, Eliura Paredes, Mexicans, July 26; Michiko Abiko, Akie Toyama, Mosako Kokubu, Miwako Majima, Japanese women, August 10; Honorato Caldúa, Joaquim Vargas, .Fortunato Lliuya, Marcelino Morales, Peruvians, July 26; Ferdinand Pfordte, Franz Bauer, Germans, July 29; Wladyslaw Barowier, Ryszard Koziol, Andrzej Skirczynski, Polish, August 28. John Hawley, John Otter, Bud Ford and Dave Campbell, USA, climbed Huascarán Norte on July 12 and Huascarán Sur on July 15.

Michael J. Rourke, Parque Nacional Huascarán