Gran Trono Blanco, South Wall, Sierra Juárez. On November 9, 10 and 11, John Vawter, Dick Savidge and I completed a new route on the south face of El Gran Trono Blanco. It consists of 11 pitches, 7 completely free and 4 mixed (these involving only a few aid moves or a tension traverse). The route takes the only available crack system left of the previously done route, “Happy Hooker” (A.A.J., 1975, p. 154), recognized by the huge right-facing chimney in the center of the south face. The climb starts just past the left-end of an obvious large roof and continues for four pitches to the “Hotel,” a very spacious but sloping ledge on which we spent two nights. The crux is the next two pitches, involving delicate and varying mixed climbing. The climbing above the “Hotel” is superb and continually challenging, with an intimidating amount of exposure. We used only three pin placements (2 knifeblades, 1 lost-arrow); emphasis was on wired stoppers with a variety of skyhooks. NCCS V, F9, A3.

Werner R. Landry