North America, Greenland, Ketil and Other Peaks, Tasermiut Fjord

Publication Year: 1976.

Ketil and Other Peaks, Tasermiut Fjord. During August a group of French climbers led by F. Guillot explored peaks around Koromint valley (Kimukât on the 250,000 map). We arrived at Narsarssuaq airport on July 23, helicoptered to Nanortalik and traveled by fishing boat to Koromint. Base Camp was on the shore of the fjord. Until April 17, when the boat returned, the climbers M. Agier, B. and M.F. Amy, P. Chapoutot, B. Domenech, B. Gorgeon, F. Guillot, J.F. and C. Lemoine, Cl. Laurendeau, M. Perrotet, J. Ratti and J. Walter made several reconnaissances and nine new routes, all alpine-style. We made the following climbs: Pointe de la RDVN (P 1500; 4922 feet) by west ridge, 1650 feet of TD sup; Nalumasortok (2051 meters; 6729 feet) by south col and east ridge; Nalumasortok by south face, 3300 feet of TD; Suikagssuak East (The Horn; 1880 meters; 6168 feet) by north couloir and west ridge, 2625 feet of D sup; Suikagssuak North (1830 meters; 6004 feet) by east couloir and ridge, 3300 feet of D; Ketil, P 2010 of the three Pingasut; 6595 feet) by direct south face, 3300 feet of TD sup, new route, 2nd ascent of the mountain on August 5 and 6, descent by different route; Pingasut Central (1640 meters; 5380 feet) by east ridge, AD; Itikiklik Dome (1945 meters; 6382 feet) by west side, D; P 1680 (5512 feet) by west slope. The rock was generally good, except for spots where frost or lichen had disintegrated the granite. The weather was good with short rainy periods; it changes so slowly that it does not cause precipitous retreats. There are still many other excellent groups of mountains to be explored.

Bernard Amy, Club Alpin Français