American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Coast Range, Mount Waddington, New Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Mount Waddington, New Route. During July Dave Mention and I climbed Mount Waddington by a new variation. Other party members were Tim Riordan, Jack Tackle and Dave Brunk. We approached the mountain by the Franklin Glacier, with Base Camp on the Dias Glacier. Tim and Jack attempted the south face. Rockfall and an oncoming storm forced retreat. Upon their return, Dave and I packed to climb. Our route ascended a couloir, just left of the south face, to the northwest ridge. Then via the Angel Glacier we climbed the false summit and descended to a point where we traversed the main pinnacle along its northern base. The main pinnacle was climbed in storm via the southeast chimney. Deep snow with white-out conditions made our descent down the southeast ridge and over the col south of Spearman Peak difficult. Our traverse of Mount Waddington took 6½ days from Base Camp.

Jeff Jones, unaffiliated

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