American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Peaks near Mount Lunn, Northern Cariboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Peaks near Mount Lunn, Northern Cariboos. After Wayne Misener, Bill Robinson, Warren Thompson and I had driven in deteriorating weather to McBride, we drove along a well-maintained logging road 25 miles up Castle Creek to the road end at 3500 feet. From there we proceeded up the northwest fork of the creek through nearly impenetrable brush and insatiable mosquitoes for 3½ hours to the terminal moraine at the base of the icefields below Mount Lunn. From the north side of the moraine, despite rain, we ascended northwest up steep scree through more brush to timberline and Base Camp in a meadow at 7500 feet. After another rainy day we started in the fog at 9:30 A.M. traversing the glacier toward Mount Lunn, ascending a conspicuous knoll (Peak 1), a mile north of Lunn; Lunn is a 9280-foot rock easily visible from the valley. From Peak 1 we continued along the ridge over the snow-covered 9500-foot peak (Peak 2) behind and east of Lunn. From there we dropped down to Mount Lunn, where we erected a cairn and installed a register. We hoped to go on to P 8621 but got off route in the fog and ended up on the narrow rock and corniced ice ridge joining Lunn to P 9275. As it was too late to make a bid for the summit, we retraced our steps, seeing on the way that a 250-foot ice cliff separates the western ridge of Lunn from P 8621. On the second climbing day the weather was beautiful. We climbed the ridge west of Base Camp to the top of the closest peak (Peak 3; 2½ miles north of Lunn; 9020 feet). We continued to the southwest, dropping 100 feet and then ascending 40° ice to Peak 4 at 9200 feet. In a sweeping traverse we kept on west on the ridge 1½ miles to 9030-foot Peak 5. From there we traversed back dropping onto an adjacent glacier and another ridge some 2½ miles northeasterly. The ridge contained two small peaks, the larger of which was 8400 feet high.

Richard Mitchell, Mountaineers

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