Mount Steele, East Ridge. The Kajika party, Kunio Asaoka, Takashi Nakamura, Koichi Takeuchi, Miss Tokiko Michioka, Shigo Ito and I established Base Camp below the east ridge on April 19. Camp I was established at 10,300 feet on the 21st. Above 11,600 feet we fixed seven ropes on a snow wall before placing Camp II at 12,700 feet on April 27. We fixed three more ropes to 14,000 feet. On the 28th Asaoka, Nakamura and Takeuchi passed the knife edge and continued up the 30° slope to the top of Steele (16,440 feet). A second attempt by the other three of us failed in high winds.

Tetsuo Mori, Kajika Alpine Club, Japan