North America, United States, Colorado, Arrowhead Peak, South Face

Publication Year: 1976.

Arrowhead Peak, South Face. Two new routes were established on this appealing face in July. “Artemis” ascends the large, prominent dihedral about 100 feet to the right of the low point of the McHenrys-Arrowhead Ridge. Moderate slabs lead to a ledge at the base of the main corner, which is followed for two leads, past several overhangs, to the top. Tom Gries and I did the first ascent. NCCS II, F9. To the east of this lies “Warhead”, which climbs the face near its highest part. John Byrd, Tom Gries, and I began this route from a huge flake lyingon a ledge at the slabby base of the wall. Wet and tricky friction was encountered on the second pitch, and the third pitch surmounted the major left-curving arch that blocks access to the upper face by laybacking up a black flake. Above this, very clean and enjoyable climbing followed the left-facing dihedral formed by a higher arch, and continuing cracks and corners beyond. Seven pitches were done, all on excellent granite. NCCS III, F9. Both routes were done clean.

Lawrence Hamilton, Unaffiliated