American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Taylor Peak, East Face

United States, Colorado

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Michael Covington
  • Climb Year: 1975
  • Publication Year: 1976

The east face of Taylor Peak is situated above Sky Pond in the Loch Vale region of Rocky Mountain National Park. Early in April Doug Scott, Doug Snively, and I established a new route there in semi-winter conditions. The route ascends a right-leaning snow ramp which begins about 60 meters left of the prominent prow which dominates the center of the east face. We followed these two pitches to the base of a large prominent snowfield which we climbed unbelayed for 300 meters to steeper, safer territory. Using the steep band of snow and rock for protection we climbed up and left for threepitches to a spectacular snow bench. One more pitch up and right got us to the top, which we reached in the early afternoon. The climbing although not difficult was a little precarious due to snow and ice balconies which periodically swept the route. The major problem was to keep from being hit by the tombstone locomotives.

Michael Covington

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