American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Sulphur Peak and "Cutthroat Spire," North Faces, Wind River Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Sulphur Peak and “Cutthroat Spire”, North Faces, Wind River Range. In September, 1974, Lou Dawson and I made two new routes near Peak Lake above the upper Green River. We climbed a really fine mixed route of some difficulty on the north face of Sulphur Peak. We followed a steep ice gully for six 150-foot pitches, then climbed six pitches up a series of chimneys and cracks in the center of the face. This route is similar to the one described by William March in A.A.J., 1975, page 137, but takes a more direct line. We found a piton in place shortly after leaving the ice, probably left by March for his tension traverse. NCCS III, F9, 55° to 60° ice, no aid, 6 hours, 1600 feet. The following day we climbed the north face of the prominent gendarme right (west) of Sulphur Peak, which we tentatively named “Cutthroat Spire.” We found no trace of previous parties. The route consisted of three easy pitches on the lower rock band, five up a moderate icefield and six up the final tower. Three of the pitches on the tower involved extensive and difficult aid climbing. NCCS IV, F9, A-4, 45° ice, 1600 feet.

Michael Kennedy, Elk Mountain Climbing Club

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