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North America, United States, Idaho, Little Roman Nose, Southern Selkirks

Little Roman Nose, Southern Selkirks. Mark Guthrie and I did the first ascent of the north face on September 27. We climbed the obvious dihedral that can be seen from the lake below it in four pitches of mixed free and aid climbing; the climbing was predominantly free. The first pitch is easy class five; the second goes around a tree to the left and uparound a small overhang onto a slab, then up a steep crack to another tree. The third goes out onto the edge of the dihedral, and then works back into the corner to a grassy ledge. The fourth pitch traverses off the ledge (crux) and up and out onto the face to a ramp. This ramp is traversed left back into the dihedral which is followed to the top. There are many possible routes on this fine face. The route was done with nuts only, and no hammer. NCCS II, F8, A2.

C. Michael Holt