North America, United States, Idaho, Huddleson's Bluff, South Fork of the Clearwater River

Publication Year: 1976.

Huddleson’s Bluff, South Fork of the Clearwater River. On October 19, 1973, we crossed the cold river and hiked downstream to the wall. In the morning we crossed the sometimes very exposed ledge at the base of the main wall to where Dave had left a fixed rope from his previous solo attempt. The second pitch leads through the two most obvious roofs on the Wall near two large patches of white rock. The rope drag became so great that Dave ended the second pitch just above the corner of the second roof. From here he nailed up a right-leaning, slightly overhanging crack until it petered out. He then traversed left on skyhooks until he got to the chicken heads that lead up to the partially dead belay tree. The fourth pitch ascends the rock to the left of the dirt-filled crack, wandering back and forth until a ledge 20 feet below the top is reached. From the tree up, the climbing was all moderate and free. The aid climbing was strenuous and difficult. It took us a day and a half to complete the climb. NCCS III, F7, A4.

C. Michael Holt