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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Sugarloaf Dome, Southwest Face

Sugarloaf Dome, Southwest Face. This face was climbed in June by Fred Beckey and me. Sugarloaf is the prominent formation across the Merced River from Bonnell Point in Little Yosemite Valley. Leave the trail at a point where you walk next to a cascade and gain a bushy ledge below the southwest face. Starting just left of the left-most tree on the ledge, climb several difficult free pitches to a point where you nail a short crack to a tree. Climb up and right for a pitch and nail a small short arch to a large ledge. From the left end of the ledge, join the Salathé route and climb up and right for two pitches more to the summit.

Michael Warburton