North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Wells Peak, East Face

Publication Year: 1976.

Wells Peak, East Face. This face, north of The Smokestack and Adams Rib, resembles Mount Whitney in miniature. Reconnaissance located a good start and some very continuous face climbing. The final ascent was made on February 23 and 24, 1974, by Jack Roberts, Allen Bartlett, and Fred Beckey. Except for a few moves of aid on the second pitch, the entire climb is free, and on generally good rock. Three consecutive steep pitches led from a bivouac at the foot of the wall to a broken terrace. Higher, a long crack system leads to the apex of a pillar. (A weird mantling traverse and an overhanging free problem are the key areas.) Rock directly above proved unyielding, so the party made a short rappel to the gully south of it, then continued several more pitches to the summit. Descent was by a snow gully on the north. NCCS IV, F8, Al.