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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,160+, Peaklet Wall

Tuttle Creek, Keyhole Wall. On May 18, Jack Roberts and I climbed a classic six-pitch new route on this spectacular wall; we called it the “Locksmith Route”. The route climbs the smooth central and highest portion of the face, and can be identified by the first two pitches which are a whitish right-facing open-book. The route is quite continuous in finger-jams and cracks, as well as face-climbing problems. NCCS III, F8 or F9. On January 15, 1976, Alan Bartlett and I climbed a slightly shorter open-book route about 100 yards to the east. We dubbed this the “Pass Key”; the route is one continuous crack and chimney system. NCCS II, F7.

Fred Beckey