Mount Maude, Central Couloir, On July 19, Tim Boyer, his brother Keith, and I climbed the couloir in one day from the car. Apart from a short rock pitch to gain the snow above the bergschrund, the climb was uneventful 45°-50° snow (at the steepest places). I’m not sure if this would hold enough snow to form a good ice climb by September. This is, at any rate, the easiest of the north face routes. NCCS II, F6.
C. M. Holt