American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Dragontail Peak, Sundown Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Dragontail Peak, Sundown Route. Keith Boyer and I climbed this new route, which begins to the right of the northwest face route (Davis-Beckey, 1962) and is separated from it by a prominent black ridge which leads directly to the summit. The first two pitches out of the moat lean to the north and become steep immediately. These are followed by a series of ledges (easy class five), then the wall steepens again. After a mid-day start, we bivouacked after eight pitches. Sunday morning found us continuing up the final five pitches. The crux was in this section: a long pillar with a jam-crack in a corner, laybacking off jams to friction up to a mediocre belay. Beyond this, the climbing improved steadily until we stepped through the notch just southwest of the summit. July 26 and 27. NCCS IV, F8, 13 pitches.

C. M. Holt

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