North America, United States, Alaska, Mendenhall Towers, Juneau Icefields

Publication Year: 1976.

Mendenhall Towers, Juneau Icefields. Craig McKibben, Brian Cox, my wife Sharon and I left the Mendenhall Loop Road on July 5 and walked 15 miles up to the base of the Mendenhall Towers in 1½ days. On July 7 Brian, Craig and I climbed the southeast ridge of the second tower (of the seven, numbered west to east) and returned to camp in 18 hours. On July 9 we climbed the south ridge of the third tower and returned in 20 hours. The descent of the southwest face was a vertical horror of loose blocks, in semi-darkness with a thunder storm approaching. Both routes were of 14 pitches of varied climbing on good rock in a magnificent alpine setting. The hardest climbing was F9. Craig and Brian did most of the leading.

Malcolm Moore