AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, Alaska, P 12,606, Fairweather Range

P 12,606, Fairweather Range. On April 24 Bill Sumner, Mike Heath and I reached Base Camp at 6500 feet on the Fairweather Glacier, hoping to climb either Mount Salisbury (12,170 feet), P 12,606 or both. Continual bad weather pinned us down for the next two weeks. Finally, on May 9, the weather improved and we climbed 2000 feet up Salisbury’s northwest face, which rises 5000 feet at a sustained 50° to 55°, before a violent, warm storm forced a retreat. In the short remaining time we decided to gamble on a quick alpine push to reach P 12,606. Steep snow couloirs on the south side provided access to the high plateau between Mount Quincy Adams and the final 2000 feet of the north ridge of P 12,606. We climbed the second couloir from the right, unroped, up 45° to 50° snow for 2000 feet. Near its exit to the plateau, the couloir became increasingly difficult and we had several hard leads to finish it. Ahead there were no more technical difficulties, but the weather again worsened. Lightweight snowshoes helped us through the basin’s deep snow to reach the north ridge. After 14 hours of climbing we reached the summit. On the descent we bivouacked at the top of the couloir. The next morning we abseiled several hundred feet to reach the easier snow. During three weeks we had only four marginal climbing days. We are proposing to the authorities the name of “Mount Tlingit” in honor of the native people who first inhabited this magnificent area.

Dusan Jagersky