American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Jette, St. Elias Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1976

Mount Jette, St. Elias Mountains. On July 6, R.A. Bindschadler, W.D. Harrison, C.F. Raymond and I made what we believe to be the first ascent of Mount Jette (8460 feet), boundary peak 177 in the St. Elias range between Alaska and the northwestern tip of British Columbia. The peak is named after Sir Louis Jetté, who was one of the boundary arbitrators. Our base was the University of Alaska-Washington camp on Variegated Glacier, where we and other glaciologists are investigating causes of the surge behavior of this glacier. A six-hour ascent was made after a bivouac on the pass between Variegated and Butler Glaciers. About a mile of scrambling along a ridge and several easy but dangerous pitches on rotten rock, gave access to steep but easy snow slopes leading to the summit. Near disaster struck on the descent when one of the party was virtually carried off the ridge as it disintegrated around him. Luckily he was held uninjured by the few surviving strands of the rope.

Peter H. Weickmann, Unaffiliated

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