Marcus Baker, North Summit. Mark Fouts, Ward Warren and I approached by the winding, 30-mile Matanuska Glacier. On June 11 we placed Base Camp at the bottom of Marcus Baker’s north ridge. The next three days were spent threading our way up the north ridge to the north summit (12,360 feet). The route was technically not difficult. The main south summit is 800 feet higher and three miles further along the ridge. Our retreat to civilization was made by ascending to the 9000-foot pass between the Matanuska and Marcus Baker Glaciers and skiing down the latter to Grasshopper valley, where we were picked up and flown back to Anchorage.
Charles R. Hammond, Mountaineering Club of Alaska