North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires

Publication Year: 1976.

Kichatna Spires. During the month of July a group of Alaska climbers, Clancy Crawford, Charlie Hostetler, Paul Denkewalter, Peter Sennhauser and I, climbed, skied and explored a small portion of the Cathedral Spires. A1 Curtis flew us under the clouds and onto the Tatina Glacier on July 2. Base Camp was set up at the head of Tatina Glacier. On July 4 Paul, Peter and I climbed a spire just west of camp (7400 feet; “Poliak Spire”). The climb involved a 1000-foot snow gully, five rock pitches (one F8), and lots of wet weather. On July 6 Clancy and Charlie climbed the three summit spires of a peak west of Mount Jeffers (6800 feet; “Three-O-Spire”). Their climb involved a nasty icefall and some good 5th-class climbing. On July 10 Clancy, Charlie and I climbed a spire just north of Mount Nevermore (7800 feet; “Mount Neveragain”). After 1500 feet of steep snow and ice climbing followed by five gratifying rock-climbing pitches, we arrived on this superb summit with its rewards: view of everywhere. On the same day Peter and Paul did some 5th-class rock climbing on the slabs of Mount Jeffers. After several days of being stuck in our tents by the typical Spires weather (rain, snow, high winds and white-out), Paul and I ventured out and up a peak. We left camp to climb a magnificent snow spire east of camp (7600 feet; “Whiteout Spire”). The almost zero visibility made the climb through the icefall thrilling, especially the crevasses I fell into. Five pitches of front-pointing and snow-climbing brought us to the summit. After another long spell of bad weather it cleared. And on July 18, Charlie, Paul and I skied down glacier to climb Sunshine Couloir (7000 feet). We climbed its fantastic 1500-foot ice gully and 40-foot rock pitch to its summit. The ice was 60° to 70° and in almost perfect condition. One of the best climbs of the expedition. Ice conditions in late July are great.

Gary Bocarde