South Peak of Mount Hayes Attempt. We failed to reach the south peak of Mount Hayes because a huge crevasse lay at right angles to our climbing route 50 feet below the summit. We had only two snow pickets left, which we needed for the descent. In another attempt we shall bring a ladder. The lower part of the south face of the south peak, across which we traversed to reach the south ridge, has great avalanche danger. The south ridge is not difficult except for some steep, snow-covered ice and some unstable hard snow in the form of lobster tails near the summit, which is guarded by several séracs. We used four days and nights for the attempt including reconnaissance and load-carrying.

Toshiro Matsunaga, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club