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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Deborah, North Face Attempt; P 9400 and P 9830

Mount Deborah, North Face Attempt; P 9400 and P 9830. Our party consisted of Don Brooks*, Dave Huntley, Eric Reynolds and me*. Cliff Hudson flew us to the north side of Deborah, where we established Base Camp on the Gillam Glacier. The next five days were spent fixing ropes, ferrying loads and establishing a high camp on the prominent cleaver which merges into the face proper some 4000 feet from the summit. Our plan was for an alpine-style push from this point. Several storms with 100-mph winds which flattened our tents, broke the poles and in which we lost crampons and climbing gear, our lack of fixed rope and rock pitons and the problem of descent off a rather inaccessible summit caused us to abandon the project and turn our attention during the second week of May to surrounding peaks. At the end of Deborah’s west ridge lies P 9400, which was climbed by Brooks and Huntley via the northeast ridge. Descent was by the northwest face. Several miles northwest of this peak lies P 9830. It has a long east-west ridge separating it from a smaller summit on the eastern end. Reynolds and I climbed the north face of this smaller peak, a 2100-foot ice face, and did a traverse of the ridge to the main peak. Descent was via a couloir on the southeast face.

David E. Davis, Unaffiliated

* Recipient of a grant from the Boyd N. Everett Climbing Fellowship.