Mount Hunter, East Ridge. The Eihokai-Osaka Expedition was composed of Kazuteru Jo, leader, Katsuyuki Jo, Yasuyuki Yamashita, Shintaro Sekizuka and Hideki Nakai. They were flown by Cliff Hudson to the Tokositna Glacier on May 25. Base Camp, 10 miles up the north fork of the glacier, was established on the 28th. They attacked the snow wall to reach the east ridge. Camp I was placed directly under the col on June 1. A 65-foot cornice collapsed on the ridge on June 2; Katsuyuki Jo narrowly escaped, but they lost precious equipment. The route along the knife edge to Camp II was difficult. Camp II was placed just beyond the second peak on the ridge on June 5. Beyond the end of the knife edge and below a 35-foot ice wall, they found a 1000-foot-long flat ridge. Camp III was placed there in a snow cave on June 7. More knife edge required fixed rope. On June 10 Katsuyuki Jo and Sekizuka left Camp III just after midnight. They passed a roof-like peak and a small rock peak. A snow and ice wall took three hours to climb. After 15 hours they dug a snow cave near the junction with the northeast ridge. They left again just after midnight on June 11, crossed the snowfield, climbed a snow wall on the east side and followed the ridge to the top (14,470 feet), where they arrived at 5:30 A.M. Yamashita and Nakai reached the summit that same day at eight A.M.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club