North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Foraker, First Winter Ascent, Southeast Ridge

Publication Year: 1976.

Mount Foraker, First Winter Ascent, Southeast Ridge. A Mountaineering Club of Alaska party was flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on February 13. It consisted of Steve and Gary Tandy, Don and Dave Pahlke, Larry Tedrick, Brian Miskil and Gaylan McCord. They attempted the unclimbed south ridge which rises from the west fork of the Kahiltna. Poor snow conditions and a 180-foot fall (fortunately causing only a broken rib) persuaded them to give up the attempt there. The Tandy brothers alone remained, the others flying out on March 6. The Tandys shifted to the second-ascent route, the southeast ridge. From the 6500-foot base of the ridge, they climbed to place Camp I at 8500 feet. Camp II was placed at 10,800 feet in a snow cave on the face on March 9. They rested the next day as it stormed. On the 11th they reached the main crest of the southeast ridge but found it better to climb below rather than on the sharp, icy ridge. They set up camp at 13,200 feet on March 12. On March 13 they had a narrow corniced ridge from 13,300 to 14,000 feet but above there found few climbing difficulties before reaching the summit.