Asia, Pakistan, Dirgol Zom, Tirich Mir West II and III

Publication Year: 1975.

Dirgol Zom, Tirich Mir West II and III. On August 6 Beppe Re and I made Base Camp at 15,750 feet in the Tirich Mir group. In the following days we placed a tent at 19,000 feet and another at 20,500 feet on the easy Tirich Glacier. To acclimate we climbed previously ascended Dirgol Zom (22,267 feet). After a rest in Base Camp, we returned to Camp II. The next day, August 18, we packed our tent to 22,475 feet on the face which had been climbed by a strong French party a month before on their first ascent of Tirich Mir West III. On August 19 we followed the French route to the summit of Tirich Mir West III (7400 meters or 24,279 feet), descended to the col between Tirich Mir West III and II and followed the ridge to the virgin summit of Tirich Mir West II (7500 meters or 24,607 feet), where we arrived at four P.M. We were back in Camp II at ten P.M.

Guido Machetto, Club Alpino ltaliano