Thui II Attempt. From Gilgit we drove in four jeeps to Yasin in the Thui valley. We hired 21 donkeys and subsequently 25 porters to reach Base Camp at 14,500 feet. Camp I on Thui II (21,401 feet) was established at 17,000 feet on a shelf overlooking the Qalandar Gum Glacier and Camp II on a col at the head of the glacier at 19,500 feet. Subsequent progress was severely limited by fresh snow which caused avalanche danger on the upper slopes. On August 12 Bob Cockeram and I climbed to our highest point, when we reached a subsidiary peak of Thui II (c. 20,000 feet).

Ronald Rutland, Charlotte Mason College, England