Thui I, Hindu Raj. Our expedition was composed of Hideo Mutoh, Yasumi Narita, Miss Kimiko Nakamura, Hiroshi Yanagi, Miss Akemi Takei, Masayuki Nakanishi, Pakistani liaison officer Major Shaukat Hayat and me as leader. We approached via Chitral, Mastuj, Brep, the Gazin Gol, the Thui An and the Anghostbar and Borumbar glaciers. Base Camp was at the tongue of the Borumbar. Our route went from the glacier up the south ridge of P 6400 (20,998 feet) and thence over Thui I's southwest ridge to the summit of Thui I (21,850 feet). Camps I and II were at 12,450 and 14,750 feet on the Borumbar Glacier. We climbed the face to reach the steep ridge and placed Camps III and IV at 17,900 and 19,350 feet on the ridge. On July 27 Mutoh and Yanagi climbed to the summit. We had attempted Thui I (or Karol Zom) four years before from the northwest by the Panarillo Glacier but this time the Pakistani government gave us permission to climb from the south.
Toshiyuki Miyoshi, Unpyo Alpine Club, Tokyo, Japan