Toshain II. On August 12 a Mountain Travel group in the Mazeno Pass area made the first ascent of 19,500-foot Toshain II, 10½ miles southwest of Nanga Parbat, above the Toshain Glacier, on the south side of the Rupal Nallah. We started from Gilgit on August 2 and camped at Astor, Tarshing and Bazhin before establishing Base Camp above the village of Shalgiri at 12,500 feet. Camp I was on the glacier at 13,500 feet and Camp II was above the first icefall at 15,200 feet. We established Camp III at 17,000 feet after technical climbing through a second icefall. The next day Susan Jarrell, Roger Mellem, William Unsoeld and I made the summit at 12:15 P.M.

Mary Omberg, Unaffiliated