P 6394, Broad Peak Group. The expedition of the Ichikawa Alpine Club was composed of Masuzumi Nishina, Katsuyoshi Itoo, Tadeo Tsuruhara, Shiro Omura, Hidenori Iwamot, Izumi Kita, Yoshio Takeda and me as leader. I had organized an expedition for K 12 but, I know not why, the government of Pakistan gave us permission for more difficult Broad Peak only a few weeks before leaving Japan. We could but change our plan, but we did not have the time to prepare properly for Broad Peak. I settled to try the c. 8000-meter north peak. On June 30 we set up Base Camp at Concordia on the Baltoro Glacier. Camp I was on the Godwin Austen Glacier at 16,000 feet, from which we hoped to climb the west ridge. The lower part of the ridge is very steep and we could not find a route. We then turned to the north side. We finally took the ridge from Sella Pass but it was too long and we had to give up at 20,675 feet. On July 15 Iwamot and Kita made the first ascent of P 6394 (20,978 feet), which lies northwest of Sella Pass.

Tatsuro Arioka, Japanese Alpine Club