P 19,958, Lower Baltoro Glacier. An expedition of the Groupe de Haute Montagne attempted to climb the granite tooth which lies between the Uli Biaho and Trango glaciers and between Payu Peak and and Trango Towers. It is given as 6083 meters (19,958 feet) on the map accompanying G.O. Dyhrenfurth’s Baltoro. We tried the south buttress. In the final assault we were stopped on July 16 by very bad weather after a second bivouac 130 feet from the top. We had fixed ropes in the access couloirs but climbed the buttress without any, alpine-style. Much of the route required direct aid. The team consisted of Michel Février, Jean François Porret, Raymond Coène, Pierre Beguin, Dominique Marquis and me.

Jean Fréhel, Groupe de Haute Montagne