Asia, Nepal, Nampa South or Rokapi

Publication Year: 1975.

Nampa South or Rokapi. In the pre-monsoon season we made an attempt on this unclimbed summit of 22,408 feet in the far northwest of Nepal. We were John Barron, Bob Junkison, Tom Leppert, Barry Smith and I. We chose the mountain for its remote position and apparent climbing difficulty. We approached from the southeast via the Seti River and the Salimor Khola. We believe we were the first team to climb in the Salimor. Base Camp was established on April 17 at 13,125 feet. Three days later we set up Camp I at 17,000 feet on the glacier beneath the south ridge, which, although long and difficult, appeared the most feasible route from the east. By May 8 we had put up two more camps at 19,000 and 20,000 feet and had climbed as high as 21,000 feet. We hoped that a single two-day push would be all that was needed to reach the top. We were badly hit by illness at this crucial stage and the weather, which up to now had been mixed, closed in completely. Continual snowfall prevented progress and the attempt was finally abandoned on May 27.

Alastair Kellas, England