Tukuche Peak. Our members were Kazumi Fujikura, Hisao Miyazaki, Norio Shimoda and I as leader. We climbed Tukuche Peak by the normal route from the north followed by other expeditions. On April 1 we established Base Camp at 16,750 feet on the moraine an hour west of Dhampus (or Thapa) Pass. Camp I was placed on the north ridge at 18,500 feet on April 3. We established Camp II on April 10 on a plateau at 20,675 feet after climbing a 2175-foot snow ridge which had a smooth ice wall and some crevasses. On April 21 we all four left Camp II at three A.M. and ascended steep ridges until we reached the summit (22,688 feet) at 11:10 A.M. We also climbed Little Tukuche Peak (19,170 feet) on April 2 and Dhampus Peak (19,724 feet) on April 26.

Yoshio Ogata, Yukitoiwanokai, Japan