American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri IV Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Dhaulagiri IV Attempt. The British Royal Air Force Dhaulagiri IV Expedition was led by Wing Commander D. le R. Bird and had 14 members. They were attempting Dhaulagiri IV (25,133 feet) from the Barun Khola to the north. Camp I was established at 16,000 feet on April 9 and 10. After initial difficulties and delays, they were making very good progress when the accident occurred. The highest point reached was 17,200 feet, the site for Camp II. On April 14 at 9:05 A.M. falling ice hit a group of five Sherpas and four RAF members whilst carrying loads to establish Camp II. Two Sherpas in the middle of the group, Dawa Tenzing and Kami Sarki, were killed instantly. Ang Tsering was knocked down and died of injuries on April 15 at 2:15 A.M. Ang Nima was badly knocked about but was able to scramble for safety; his injuries were not serious. He was evacuated to Kathmandu by helicopter on April 16. The expedition was abandoned.

Michael Cheney, Himalayan Club

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