American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna East

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Annapurna East. (Señor Anglada explains that this is a distinct summit (26,333 feet) just east of Annapurna I. The Spaniards climbed a new route, east of that climbed by the French.) Emilio Civis and Manuel Martín crossed India with two trucks and reached Pokhara at the end of February. Jorge Pons, Dr. Mariano Anglada, Eduardo Blanchard, Antonio Villena, Javier Pérez, Enrique Benavente and I as leader reached Pokhara on March 9. We had to wait a week to find 200 porters and 57 mules. It took seven days to get to Chhoya, where problems began because the Thulobugin Pass (14,100 feet) to the Miristi Khola was full of snow and most porters refused to go on. After relaying loads, we reached Base Camp on April 4. On April 12 we established Camp I at 17,060 feet on the main glacier of Annapurna I. On the 16th we placed Camp II (19,350 feet) a mile from the north face. From there we followed the north ridge of Annapurna East; several days’ work of cutting steps and fixing ropes took us on the 22nd to Camp III (21,325 feet) on the ridge. The Sherpas refused to go beyond Camp II but we finally convinced three of them to make three carries of 25 pounds to Camp II (for additional pay). From there on expedition members packed 45-pound loads ourselves. On April 24 we reconnoitered and packed to 22,650 feet. On the 26th Martín, Villena and Pérez as support and Civis, Pons and I as the attack team left Camp III and reached 23,500 feet, where the latter three established Camp IV. On the 28th we three set up Camp V at 24,575 feet, still on the ridge. On April 29 we left Camp V at seven A.M. and followed the ridge leading directly to Annapurna East. At midday a snow and lightning storm made it difficult to advance; later it cleared but stayed cold. We reached the summit at nine P.M. in the moonlight. The temperature was -36° F. We descended until four A.M. when the moon set but soon continued again, reaching Camp V at six A.M.

José Manuel Anglada, Club Montañés Barcelonés

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