American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Pumori, West Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Pumori, West Face. The Alpine Club Unpo expedition was made up of Junji Matsuda, Minoru Takagi, Ko Hattori, Yoshinobu Mizuta, Fumiaki Sakoda, Kiyoshi Ikawa, Motoichi Ohgoshi, Keiji Nomura, Nobuyaki Kaneko, Miss Mutsuko Koyama and me as leader. We climbed the difficult, previously untried west face of Pumori (23,442 feet). Base Camp was established on September 12 at 17,225 feet on the east bank of the Changri Glacier, just west of Kala Pattar. Camp I, on the glacier at the foot of the west face, was set up on September 18. We established Camps II and III on the face at 19,500 and 21,800 feet on September 26 and October 7. Takagi and Kaneko left Camp III at 2:40 A.M. on October 13, reached the top at 9:50 and were back in Camp III at four P.M.

Hiroshi Fujita, Alpine Club Unpo, Japan

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