Jannu. The members of the Seijo University Jannu Expedition were Mikio Kawase, leader, Yukihiro Ichikawa, Eigi Yamada, Takeshi Naganuma, Jun Miyazaki, Sumio Azuma, Soji Obara, Koichiro Ohara and me. We followed the French route on the southwest (Yamatari Glacier) side. Base Camp was established on March 19 at 14,750 feet. The other camps were established as follows: I at 15,750 feet on March 28, II at 17,400 feet on April 1, III at 19,350 feet on April 6, IV at 21,325 feet on April 21, first V at 23,000 feet on May 7, second V at 22,000 feet on May 9, VI at 24,125 feet on May 15, the last on the east shoulder of Jannu. Ichikawa and Obara left Camp VI at five A.M. on May 18 for the summit in windy but fortunately clear weather. They carried only one oxygen cylinder each because the route above Camp VI was too severe to carry two. Only 800 feet of rope were fixed above Camp VI in a key rock gully leading to the summit snow ridge. They got to the summit (25,294 feet) at 5:05 P.M. They had to climb down the most difficult part on Jannu in the night without oxygen, arriving at Camp VI at 10:45 P.M., thoroughly exhausted. The second assault by Yamada and me on May 19 was abandoned for the following reasons. The summiters were unable to act as support and Miyazaki and Azuma were engaged in the rescue of Tensing and could not come up to Camp VI. The supply line above Camp IV was always critical and became worse because of the accidents. On April 23 the sirdar Karma fell into a hidden crevasse near Camp III and dislocated his shoulder. He had to be evacuated by helicopter. At midnight on May 8 a new-snow avalanche swept through the upper Camp V and carried away Miyazaki, Azuma and Sherpas Tensing and Ang Phurba. Tensing twisted his back muscles into no walking. The top two camps were evacuated on May 19 and the other high camps on the 20th.

Kazutoyo Hashimura, Seijo University, Japan