Kangbachen, Second Ascent. The members of the fifth Yugoslavian Himalayan expedition were Jože Andlovic, Peter Soklic, Zoran Jerin, Rado Riedl, Zvone Andrejcic, Stane Belak, Danilo Cedilnik, Janez Dovžan, Janez Gradišar, Franc Jeromen, Marjan Manfreda, Bojan Poliak, Roman Robas, Miha Smolej, Peter Šcetinin, Tone Trobevšek and me as leader. We left Dharan on August 20, climbed the same day over Sanguri La and descended to the Levti Khola. We had 266 local porters, carrying eight tons. In the following days we climbed the Mahabharat Lekh by way of Dhankuta, Hille, Sinduwa, Thute, Cauki and Guppa Pokhari and descended through to Doban. From Doban we followed the usual Tamur valley track. From Mitlung we followed the left bank of the Tamur River for two days through sacred Chirua and up to Sakathum, where we left the Tamur and climbed along the west side of the Char Chu gorge. From Yabla the valley up to Ghunza (largest village in the area at 10,100 feet) is broader and the road better. From here half the loads were carried by yak. We followed for two days more the reasonably good road on the left bank to the Ramtang Glacier moraine at 15,100 feet and on September 8 up the right side of the glacier to Base Camp in the middle of the Ramtang at 17,225 feet. On September 9, in spite of the thick fog and slight snowfall, we pitched the first tents at Camp I at 18,875 feet. Snowfall and fog in the next two days prevented exploring the safest route to the snow plateau, where Camp II would be established. In the following fair weather, a simple, safe passage to the big plateau was found on September 11 and the next day Camp II was established at the safest place at 20,500 feet. From there the going was extremely difficult in the deep snow on the steep slope to the col between P 7535 and White Wave Peak. On September 14 the first tent was pitched on the col at 21,650 feet and the route was secured by fixed rope. In the next days there were heavy snowfalls and many avalanches which thundered down the slopes over the Ramtang Glacier. On the 19th all climbers were called back to Base Camp. In Camp II all tents were destroyed by avalanches and some of those in Camp III. On September 22 a party explored the route from the col toward the summit. The next day the route was fixed with rope and Camp IV was established at 23,625 feet on the northwest slopes just under P 7535. On the 26th a party went ahead from this camp but their advance was stopped by a sudden snowfall. On the 27th Belak, Robas and Scetinin accompanied by three Sherpas reached Camp IV and the next day climbed the steep slope to the triangular rock at the lower end of a ramp leading to the upper col under the very summit of Kangbachen. The rock offered the only safeguard against avalanches for a camp in this region. Camp V was established at 24,500 feet. On September 29 the sky was partly cloudy and there was moderate wind from the west. The trio left Camp V at seven A.M. and slowly climbed in the deep snow to the upper end of the ramp and to the col. It was two P.M. when they reached the ridge at 25,100 feet, where we Yugoslavs had turned back in 1965. Light snow fell from the cloudy sky. Despite this and the late hour they proceeded and reached the summit (25,925 feet) at 5:30 P.M. This was the second ascent, the first having been done by Poles on May 26, 1974. The weather improved and they descended by moonlight. On October 5 Dovžan, Jeromen and Manfreda left Camp V at seven A.M. and reached the summit at noon. The trio returned to Camp IV while Andrejcic, Riedl and Trobevšek reached Camp V. Nima remained with the climbers to make the climb. In fair but deteriorating weather on the afternoon of October 6 these four reached the summit. On October 7 the weather was dangerous. Wind gained strength and much new snow accumulated during the hasty retreat. An avalanche crossed the route when nobody was on it. By October 10 all were back in Base Camp.

Anton Škarja, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia