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South America, Chile and Argentina—Patagonia, An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1977-5

An Early Report on Patagonian Climbing in the Southern Summer of 1974-5. The expedition to Cerro Moyano did not succeed despite exceptionally good weather for Patagonia. Jure Skvarca and Mario Serrano could not overcome the technical difficulties, which will require a bigger strong team. All possible routes have not yet been investigated. At this moment (January 24) a strong Italian team led by Cesarino Fava is on the same peak. The good weather favored the Swiss, who climbed the American route on Fitz Roy, reaching the top at the end of the first week of January, 1975. They also made a first ascent, that of Aguja Bífida in the Cerro Torre valley. Australians failed on Fitz Roy’s east buttress, which has repelled several previous groups. The English were unsuccessful in their attempts on Torre Egger and Torre Standhart. They did, however, find Toni Egger’s body, who died on Cerro Torre in 1959. The Club Andino Bariloche sent out a group of 14, mostly youths from 15 to 17 years old, including three girls, who in November crossed the Paso de los Vientos to the Nunatak in the Continental Icecap, previously visited by Shipton. They reached the highest summit (c. 6500 feet) of this rocky massif.

Vojslav Arko, Club Andino Bariloche