American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Peaks in the Cordilleras Apolobamba and Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Peaks in the Cordilleras Apolobamba and Real. The Jubilee Expedition of the Schorndorf Section of the German Alpine Club had as members Ernst Dreiseitel, Rolf Gölz, Ernst Henninger, Siegfried Härer, Ulrich Jaudas, Wolfgang Lutz, Richard Reif, and me as leader. Our outstanding achievements were the new route climbed on Pelechuco Huaracha, the southwest ridge, and the traverse of Haucaña and Ancohuma. Unfortunately on July 7 Henninger was killed during an unsuccessful attempt on Ancohuma’s south face, when the bridge over the randkluft (moat) collapsed. We arrived at the Pelechuco Pass in the Cordillera Apolobamba on June 14. We made the following climbs: P 5330 (17,487 feet; BJE 2), 2nd ascent by new route, southwest face, and traverse to P 5300 (17,389 feet; BJE 1) by F. and R. Gölz, Lutz, Siemers and P 5300 (17,389 feet; BJE 3) by Härer, Henninger, Dreiseitel, Jaudas, Reif, all three on June 15; P 5300 (17,389 feet; OAE 1) by Dreiseitel, F. and R. Gölz, Jaudas, Reif on June 16; after an unsuccessful attempt on P 5550, P 5450 (17,881feet; BJE 4) by Lutz, Henninger, P 5300 (BJE 3) by Siemers and P 5050 (16,568 feet; end of ridge southeast of BJE 2) by Jaudas, all three on June 17; Pelechuco Huaracha (18,537 feet), 2nd ascent by new route, southwest ridge, by Dreiseitel, F. and R. Gölz, Jaudas, Reif and P 5500 (18,045 feet) by Henninger, Lutz, both on June 18; P 5300 (OAE 1) 3rd ascent by new route, west face, and P 5300 (BJE 3) by Dreiseitel, R. Gölz, Jaudas, Reif, both on June 20. We then moved to the Ancohuma Massif of the Cordillera Real, where we made the following climbs: P 5450 and P 5570 (17,881 and 18,274 feet) by Dreiseitel, R. Gölz, Jaudas, Lutz, Reif on June 30; Lloca de Ancohuma (19,873 feet) and Quimsacollo (19,332 feet) by R. Gölz, Dreiseitel, Yacuma 1, North Peak (19,357 feet), 1st ascent by west face, by F. Gölz, Reif, and Ancopiti 1 (19,249 feet) by Härer, Lutz, Siemers, all four on July 1; Haucaña (20,360 feet) 4th ascent by new route, east buttress, and Ancohuma (21,095 feet) traversed up southeast and down north ridges by F. Gölz, Jaudas, Reif on July 2 and 3; Ancohuma via north ridge by Dreiseitel, R. Gölz, Lutz on July 3; Lloca de Ancohuma and Buena Vista (19,193 feet) by Jaudas, Lutz, Siemers on July 5 (both previously ascended).

Frieder Gölz, Deutscher Alpenverein

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