American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Negruni Group, Huayna Potosí, Chearoco, Casiri, Illampu, Pico Del Norte, Cordillera Real, 1972

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  • Publication Year: 1975

Negruni Group, Huayna Potosí, Chearoco, Casiri, Illampu, Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real, 1973. From June to August 1973 the Württemberg Friends of Nature Expedition carried out its Bolivian Expedition. Günter Schnait, Dr. Alexander Schlee, Georg Frey, Fred Bässler, Dieter Schoodt, Jörg Schwarzwälder, Rolf Sperlich and Siegfried Siebauer took part under my leadership. We made 48 ascents. In the Negruni region from June 26 to July 8, 1973 we made the first ascent of 13 mountains above 5000 meters. Our Base Camp there was on Lake Jankho Kkota at 15,425 feet. The peaks appear on the map. First ascents are marked by 1 and second ascents by2. P 53001 (17,389 feet; WKE 1) via northwest face and Mullu Apacheta1 (17,612 feet; WKE 2) via southwest ridge both by Schlee, Gall; Culin Tojo (17,612 feet; WKE 3)* by Bässler; P 53851 (17,667 feet; WKE 4), P 54801 (17,979 feet; WKE 5) and P 55031 (18,055 feet; WKE 6) via north-northeast rock face all three by Frey, Schoodt; all six climbed on June 28. P 55501 (18,209 feet; WKE 7) via east ridge and P 55801 (18,307 feet; WKE 8) both by Frey, Schoodt; P 54601 (17,914 feet; WKE 9) by Bässler, Sperlich, all three on June 29. Negruni2 (17,940 feet; WKE 10), P 54652 (17,930 feet; WKE 11) and P 53202 (17,454 feet; WKE 12) all three by Bässler, Sperlich on June 30. We placed a high camp between Wila Lloje and Jankho Huyo on July 1. On July 2 Sperlich and I traversed from west to east P 54201 (17,782 feet; WKE 13), Ventanani1 (17,809 feet; WKE 14) and P 54101 (17,750 feet; WKE 15). Wila Lloje2 (18,360 feet; WKE 16)* up east ridge and down northwest ridge, P 55751 (18,291 feet; WKE 18) traversed from south to north, P 55802 (18,307 feet; WKE 19) traversed from south to north and P 55302 (18,143 feet; WKE 20) all by Frey, Bässler, Schlee on July 2. On July 3 Schoodt climbed Waira Apacheta1 (17,454 feet; WKE 21). On July 5 Frey, Bässler and Schoodt climbed Jankho Huyo (18,084 feet; WKE 22) by the southwest snow face while Sperlich and Schlee ascended P 5500 (18,045 feet; WKE 23) by the southwest spur, both new routes. On July 6 I climbed P 54262 (17,802 feet; WKE 24) while Bässler climbed P 5230 (17,159 feet; WKE 25) and Wila Llojeta (17,205 feet; WKE 26). On July 7 Schoodt and Schlee ascended P 53101 (17,422 feet; WKE 27) while Bässler and Frey climbed P 53401 (17,520 feet; WKE 28). We traveled from La Paz to Mina Bolsa Negra on July 13 and the next day Bässler and Sperlich climbed P 5150 (16,897 feet) and our guests Helmut Erberspächer and Dr. Dieter Meyer-Keller joined Schlee, Schoodt and me to climb P 5000 (16,404 feet). On July 22 Schnaidt Schwarzwälder and Siebauer arrived at La Paz. After a bivouac at 17,500 feet, Bässler, Sperlich, Schlee, Frey and Meyer-Keller on July 24 climbed Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet). We left La Paz on July 29 for the Calzada Pass region. On July 31 Frey and Schoodt made a new route, the west ridge, of Chearoco (20,072 feet). That same day Schnaidt and Bässler climbed peaks east of Casiri, P 5615 (18,422 feet), P 5625 (18,455 feet), P 5610 (18,406 feet) and P 5680 (18,635 feet), while Schlee, Schwarzwälder and Siebauer ascended P 5400 (17,717 feet; 4 miles southwest of Casiri). After two days of bad weather, on August 3 we ascended to Calzada Pass. On August 4 Schoodt, Schnaidt, Schlee, Siebauer and Sperlich climbed P 5680 (18,635 feet), P 5600 (18,373 feet) and Casiri (19,122 feet) while Schwarzwälder ascended Rospini (17,914 feet). We then traveled via Achacachi, Sorata and Mina Candelaria to Base Camp in the Coocó basin, which we established on August 10. The next day Schnaidt climbed P 55001 (18,045 feet), which lies two miles due east of Illampu. On August 12 we placed a high camp south of Pico del Norte and east of Illampu. On August 13 Schnaidt and Sperlich bivouacked at the foot of Pico del Norte’s 60° ice face, a new route which they completed on August 14 to bivouac again on the summit (19,955 feet). They continued northeast to “Gorra de Hielo” (18,701 feet) on the 15th. Frey, Bässler, Schoodt and Siegbauer had bivouacked at the foot of the rock and ice central buttress of Illampu (20,872 feet) on August 13; they finally reached the summit on August 15 after another bivouac. (The Germans thought they had made a new route, but it appears to be the same as that climbed in 1972 by the Englishmen Steel and Scull, who unfortunately perished on the descent.—Editor.) I climbed P 5600 (18,373 feet) between P 5500 and Illampu. Schwarzwälder and Schlee climbed “Gorra de Hielo” by its south ridge on August 15, arriving there ahead of Schnaidt and Sperling, who were coming from Pico del Norte. This first pair continued on towards Pico del Norte, which they reached on the 16th after a bivouac. Base Camp was evacuated on August 19.

Heinz Gall, Württembergische Naturfreunde, Germany

*The Germans apparently did not know of the climbs done by the Japanese in 1970. The report of these climbs in A.A.J., 1972, p. 178 contains several curious transcriptions of names. Wila Lloje appears as “Huilaroje”; Culin Tojo is written “Crintoj”; Potrera is “Potrelcuchu”; Jankho Laya is “Jancoracaya”.—Editor.

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