American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Vinaya, Antaimarca and Vichgana, Cordillera Vilcanota, and Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1975

Vinaya, Antaimarca and Vichgana, Cordillera Vilcanota, and Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya. Our expedition of the Munich section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was composed of Herbert Konnerth, Bernd Lukas, Rainer Stolz, Horst Ullrich, Felix Golling, my wife Annelie Klement and I. On June 15 we had been waiting for some days for our baggage in Cuzco and decided to ride to La Raya Pass (14,163 feet) to acclimatize. On June 17 we climbed Yahuarcocha Este (16,667 feet) and Yahuarcocha Oeste (16,798 feet), southwest of the pass. All but Konnerth reached the first summit and all but my wife and Lukas, the second. The next day all but Konnerth climbed Chimboya (18,009 feet), some by the southwest face and others by the southeast face of the south ridge. We then entered the Cordillera Vilcanota. From Marcapata we ascended the Río Chumpi and branched off up the Quebrada Colline at Hallapata village, reaching Base Camp on the Ranrachaca Pampa at 14,925 feet, although we had great difficulty having our baggage brought up. We ended by climbing just about every big and small summit, both snow-covered and on very rotten rock, on the ridges that enclose the valley; all were above 16,400 feet and unclimbed. Except for short rotten ridges and isolated cornices, there were few difficulties except on the three main peaks. There was confusion about the names. The local shepherds did not know the names given the big peaks on the new Ocangate sheet of the Instituto Geográfico Militar. We give here the names locally in use, followed by the map names in parentheses when different. Altitudes from the new map agreed generally with our readings. On June 28 Lukas, Stolz, Golling, my wife Annelie and I traversed from south to north the whole ridge enclosing the valley on the west over Turumache (17,225 feet), Amaru Cocha (17,159 feet), Hapopata (17,126 feet), Huichicoline (16,995 feet) and Marcarani (16,634 feet). On June 29 Lukas, Stolz, my wife and I climbed the north face of Vinaya (Japucucho; 18,307 feet). The least dangerous part of the 1325-foot, 55° ice face was on the right. Konnerth and Ullrich traversed the peak from east to west on July 5. On July 1 Konnerth, Stolz, Ullrich, Golling and I climbed Antaimarca (Jatunnano Punta; 19,068 feet) by its north face. On July 3 Ullrich, Konnerth and I ascended the west ridge of Vichgana (Japu Punta; 19,166 feet), a climb repeated the next day by Lukas, Stolz and Golling. On July 14 we established a Base Camp at 14,750 feet south of Allinccapac, a day above Macusani. Lukas had sprained his ankle and I was weakened by a fever. On the 15th Konnerth, Ullrich, my wife and I climbed the southwest face of Panorama (17,422 feet) and traversed north over Japuma (17,914 feet). We decided to try the unclimbed northwest ridge of Allinccapac. Supplies were carried to 17,700 feet and the route was prepared. After a day’s storm, on June 18 Konnerth, Ullrich and I set out, but I was still too weak and had to give up. The other two camped at 18,000 feet, having prepared the route some 500 feet higher. On the 19th they completed this new route. They first had four pitches on a rock band that led to perpendicular ice, three pitches of ice and finally a 125-foot step, which they angled up to reach the summit (18,859 feet) in the late afternoon. An adventuresome 200-foot rappel ended the day. On the 20th they climbed the easy south ridge of Huaynaccapac (18,629 feet). They evacuated the high camp and returned to Base Camp on the 21st. On July 30 Konnerth and Ullrich climbed Chicón Noroeste (17,815 feet) in the Urubamba.

Franz Klement, Deutscher Alpenverein

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