American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Cordillera Vilcanota. From August 3 to 24, 1973 I led a German Alpine Club group to the Vilcanota. We were Holger Bantele, Karl Engelbrecht, Karl and Gunda Hacker, Franz Hauer, Horst Harich, Dr. Hans Macholdt, Dr. Rudolf Neeb, Alfred Späth, Dr. Hans Sommer, Käte Schott, Reinhard Rossner, Dr. Georg Hentschel, Anneliese Ströhlein and I. From Mallma on the Quince Mil road we reached our first Base Camp at the east end of Laguna Sigrina or Tiratinte. From a high camp a few of us climbed two peaks northwest of Cayangate I, given on John Ricker’s map as P 5885 and P 5600 (19,308 and 18,373 feet respectively). Our aneroid barometer gave altitudes of only 5250 and 5200 meters (17,225 and 17,061 feet). The northern peak is rock but we could find no signs of an ascent. We then turned to one of the lower summits of the Yanacancha group. Since belay possibilities were poor just below the summit, I soloed to the summit (5250 meters or 17,225 feet). We moved to the Pakkopampa valley in the eastern part of the heavily glaciated Ayacachi group. We climbed six peaks, finding no signs of previous ascents on the rock summits, although the peaks were easy and may have been climbed before. We ascended Nevado Belacocha (5060 meters or 16,601 feet) north of the valley, P 5160 (16,929 feet) and P 5230 (17,159 feet) at the head of the valley and P 5010 (16,437 feet), P 5170 (16,962 feet) and P 5100 (16,733 feet), south of the head of the valley. (The peaks appear on John Ricker’s map.)

Hermann Wolf, Deutscher Alpenverein, Bayreuth

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