Ampato. We approached Ampato via the railroad station at Sumbay and Sillai. With rain or new snow the road beyond the turn-off is very bad and hard to find. We climbed Ampato by the southeast side, which normally has less snow than the other ridges. We drove to 13,750 feet. The terrain rises only gradually to 17,400 feet. We established Camp I 17,000 feet on April 28 and continued the next day to Camp II at 19,225 feet without encountering great difficulties. On April 30 we continued up 40° to 45° slopes to a high cirque, framed by Ampato’s various summits. We followed an easy ridge to the highest summit (20,670 feet), which we reached at 1:15. Klaus Winter, Mario Vargas and Gustavo Vucetich descended immediately to Base Camp while Horst Ullrich and I stayed at Camp II in order to evacuate Camps II and I on May 1.
Anton Roeckl, Deutscher Alpenverein