American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordilleras Huayhuash and Raura, Yerupajá Chico, West Ridge Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Yerupajá Chico, West Ridge Attempt. The Auckland University Andean Expedition was made up of Barry Barton, Doug Brasell, Graham Langton, Tony and Tess Parlane, Roscoe Tait, David Tapp and me as leader. We established Base Camp on May 29 at the head of Jahuacocha. Because of what the locals claimed was the worst weather in years, it was not until the end of June that we were established in a snow cave at the base of Yerupajá Chico’s west ridge. Continued bad weather delayed our first attempt on the ridge until June 5. Sustained climbing on firm snow and ice of 50° to 60° saw us over the prominent fco halfway up the ridge in nine hours where we turned back in deteriorating weather. Five days later we made a second attempt, but strong winds and soft snow kept us from getting much higher. The ridge is feasible; in good conditions it should be possible in two or three days from the valley.

Mark Prebble, New Zealand Alpine Club

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