American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Caullaraju, Raria, Huandoy and Aguja Nevada Groups, 1972

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Caullaraju, Raria, Huandoy and Aguja Nevada Groups, 1973. (Details missing in A.A.J., 1974, p. 177 are found here.—Editor.) The Torun section of the Polish Mountaineering Club was composed of Tadeusz Laukajtys, leader, Roman Gutkowski, Witold Jurkowski, Stanislaw Korybut-Daszkiewicz, Bogdan Krauze, Ziemowit Plewicki, Dr. Tomasz Polakiewicz, Wojciech Szymanski, Ludwik Wilczynski, Eugeniusz Chrobak and Jaroslaw Zaremba. They reached the Cordillera Blanca on July 1, 1973. Base Camp was established at 13,450 feet where Quebradas Huicsu and Ingenio meet. A camp was placed at 16,750 feet below the glacial plateau which culminates at the summit of Nevado Brasil (18,491 feet). On July 8 that summit was reached by Chrobak and Gutkowski and on July 9 by Laukajtys, Wilczynski and Zaremba. On the 9th Chrobak and Gutkowski climbed Caullaraju Norte (17,782 feet). At the same time Jurkowski, Krauze and Plewicki camped at 16,075 feet in the Rajucolta valley and climbed Tuco Oeste (18,002 feet). All then moved to the Raria group, ascending the Quebradas Ingenio and Huaiyacu. From a camp in a 17,060-foot pass southeast of Raria, on July 14 Szymanski, Gutkowski and Wilczynski climbed Huaiyacu (17,914 feet). The next day Chrobak, Laukajtys and Plewicki climbed Raria (18,340 feet), while Jurkowski and Wilczynski ascended Raria Sur (18,143 feet). Huaiyacu Chico (17,651 feet) was climbed on July 16 by Chrobak, Jurkowski, Laukajtys and Plewicki. Polakiewicz soloed P 5203 (17,070 feet) on the south side of the Huaiyacu valley and its neighboring peak 1½ miles east, P 5343 (17,530 feet). (Of these peaks, only P 5203 and P 5343 had not been climbed before, despite the beliefs of the Poles. Either Giobbi’s or Gasser’s parties had climbed them earlier.—Editor.) They moved north. Chrobak, Laukajtys, Szymanski and Wilczynski climbed the south spur of Huandoy Oeste (20,853 feet) and reached the summit in three days on July 27. The approach through the Rajuriri valley and a confused glacier had already taken two days and two more days were spent in the descent to the Cook Glacier in the Quebrada Llanganuco. In the Parón valley, on August 7 Chrobak, Korybut, Krauze and Zaremba climbed P 5325 (17,472 feet) at the western end of the Aguja Nevada group while Jurkowski and Gutkowski climbed the Aguja Nevada Chica (17,881 feet). An attempt on Huascarán failed in bad weather. (For their climbs in southern Peru, see below.—Editor.)

Marek Brniak, Klub Wysokogórski (Polish Mountaineering Club)

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.