American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Peaks Above Palcacocha

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1975

Peaks Above Palcacocha. I returned this year in July with my wife Jacqueline and Gérard and Monique Maillard. We established our base at Palcacocha at 14,700 feet. First, from a camp at 15,575 feet, we climbed Ishinca Chico (17,405 feet), between Palcaraju Oeste and Ishinca, which does not appear on the Austrian map. The way to the high camp was made more difficult by the retreat of the glacier and the moraine washed by the flood in 1941 when Palcacocha and Cojupcocha dumped their waters. Then, from another high camp, we climbed Jatunmontepuncu Sur (17,192 feet) and Nevado Choco (17,202 feet), which lies at the north of the Tsurup group, southwest of a 5125-meter pass. None of these were first ascents.

J. Coffin, Club Alpin Français

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